Fireplaces and Stoves

We do a lot of things well, but one of our specialties is Fireplaces and Stoves. We have devoted 29,000 square feet of floor space between both locations to make sure you can make an educated decision based on all the different features and types of warmth our products provide. If you are thinking about buying a fireplace or stove, the most important first step is to call Forrest Schandel, our Fireplace Pro, to make an appointment for a walk-through at our showroom.

To view related articles, click the links below!

Warmth Philosophy

Seasoned Wood Heating Advice

Getting Started With Wood

Getting Started With Gas

Radiated Vs. Convected Heat

Chimneys and Draft Conditions

Efficiency and Heat Output

Warmth Philosophy

Where most people consider warmth to mean heating and cosiness, experience has taught us there is much more to it than that. In fact, there are five types of warmth: physical warmth and atmospheric warmth, in addition to visual, convenient and sustainable warmth.

Physical Warmth

To us, heating is not about creating the highest temperature, it is about creating the most comfortable temperature.

Overall, our stoves and fireplaces deliver the optimum combination of convected and radiated heat. And in order to provide the most comfortable heat in the most efficient manner, we have developed technology to exploit wood and gas to its fullest.

This means that our stoves and fireplaces boast the best possible physical warmth with a very low consumption of fuel.

To enhance the experience, new technology ensures that practically all the particles and gasses in the smoke are burned. This gives additional benefits to lower consumption of fuel; such as cleaner air locally, and less build-up of soot in the chimney which reduces the danger of chimney fire.

Atmospheric Warmth

Nothing creates an intimate atmosphere quite like a gently crackling fire. And nothing calms you quite like the image of a flame dancing hypnotically on a glowing log.

We have always believed in the seductive powers of the visible flame. For this reason, we have developed pioneering flame technology to achieve the perfect flame at all times. Furthermore, we design our hearths with optimal fire viewing areas, so that our customers can enjoy the full effect.

Visual Warmth

The atmosphere produced by a stove or fireplace is largely dependent on the aesthetic message it sends out.

For this reason we never underestimate the significance of aesthetics in terms of warmth. We aim to carry products that create a lasting impression in the home and give a timeless appeal.

We aim to sell stoves and fireplaces that outlive trends and retain their timeless beauty for decades.

Convenient Warmth

Our suppliers put an enormous amount of effort into their hearths so our customers don’t have to. They do this because the stove or fireplace is the centre-piece of the home – it is an essential part of everyday life – and for this reason it should represent total functionality.

Everything about a stove or fireplace is geared towards our customers’ convenience: it is easy to install, easy to use, easy to clean and easy to maintain. Life is already complicated enough, so we make its pleasures a little easier to enjoy.

Sustainable Warmth

Our complete understanding of warmth enables us to create the ultimate experience of warmth. Especially in terms of not compromising the quality of life for future generations.

This is something we feel passionately about.

When operational, our stoves and fireplaces boast the most efficient use of energy of any models on the market through a process called clean burn technology, which also significantly reduces the volumes of particles emitted locally. This means our customers can light their stove or fireplace as often as they like, with minimal effect on the environment.

Seasoned Wood/Heating Advice

Drying your fire wood

1. Cut the wood to length

The wood you have purchased or cut yourself should be the right length for your stove, fireplace or furnace. This is usually about three inches shorter than the firebox width or length, depending on how you load the wood.

2. Split it to the right size

Next, split the wood to the proper size for your burner. For most efficient wood stoves, this is usually no more than six inches measured at the largest cross sectional dimension. A range of piece sizes is best so that when kindling a fire or reloading on a coal bed you have some smallish pieces that will help you achieve the desirable instant ignition. A selection of sizes from three to six inches in diameter for wood stoves will probably serve you well.

Keep in mind that firewood only begins to dry seriously once it is cut and split to the right size because in log form the moisture is held in by the bark. So, when buying wood, ask when the wood was cut split and properly stacked to get an idea of how ready it is for burning. For this reason, experienced woodburners like to get their wood in the early spring so they can manage the drying process themselves.

3. Pile in a single row exposed to the sun and wind.

If wood is to be below 20% moisture content when you burn it in the winter, it must have the moisture removed. The only practical way homeowners can do this is to allow the sun and wind to dry the wood for them.

With this in mind, the wood should be piled in a place where the sun can warm it and the wind can blow through it. As the sun heats and evaporates the water from the wood pile the wind whisks it away.

4. Let the wood dry all summer

Most folks who split their wood and stack it in well-spaced rows find that they can dry their wood in four or five months. If you have your wood stacked in May or June it should be ready to put away for winter’s use by October. There should be no need to dry it longer than that, unless you live in a damp maritime climate and/or use very dense wood like Oak, which is notorious for taking a long time to dry.

Tips on lighting a fire

Be careful about what you put in your stove. Never use painted or pressure impregnated wood or plastics containing chlorine, such as PVC. This gives off highly poisonous gases. Don’t use driftwood from the sea as fuel. This contains salt which converts to chlorine when it is burned. You can wash the salt out of driftwood by leaving it outside in the elements for at least a couple of years.

When lighting a fire, it is a good idea to place two thick wooden logs at either side in the stove. Place some crumpled up paper between them and create a stack of thin split-up logs on top. You can then add more paper, if you need to.
Add fuel to the stove often, but only a little amount at a time. If the fire is too strong, the thermal stress in the chimney may be unnecessarily high. Make a moderate fire. Prevent the fire from smouldering as this produces the most pollution. The ideal is when the fire is burning well and the smoke from the chimney is almost invisible.

Getting Started with Wood

Installation

As with any vented hearth product, please rely on the expertise of a hearth professional for installation. All installations must be done in accordance with the owner's manual and local building codes.

Break -in fires

A series of three break-in fires are required. The first is to raise the surface temperature of the stove to 200 degrees. Another is to raise the surface temperature to 300 degrees. And yet another is to raise the surface temperature to 400 degrees. A stovetop thermometer is required for this procedure and the stove should be allowed to cool to room temperature between fires. Note: Use less wood. You can always add more. All current wood-burning appliances are EPA certified and non-catalytic. EPA certified wood-burning appliances are not "airtight." Therefore, exact temperatures may not be able to be maintained. These temperatures are ideal and should be used as a guide for proper appliance break-in.

Starting a fire

To start a fire, you need three things: heat, fuel, and air. The heat is provided by a match or lighter. For the fuel, you should use plenty of fire starter, such as crumpled newspaper and 1" x 1" dry kindling. Add wood starting with small splits, gradually building to larger pieces of wood as a coal bed builds. The force in the chimney called draft supplies the air. Opening the draft control fully will allow the maximum amount of primary air to be drawn into the appliance by the draft, which is supplied by the chimney. Note: Never open an ash pan door to start a fire. You will damage your stove. If additional start-up air is required, slightly open a load door during initial startup. Some chimney systems have little or no draft when static (no fire in the appliance). Even worse, some chimney systems have a reverse draft when static. Appliances vented into chimney systems with inadequate or reverse draft will be difficult to start and may emit smoke into the building. Good fire starting technique and a basic understanding of house pressurization and its effect on chimney systems is required when inadequate or reverse draft is present. Not all negative pressure situations are easily corrected. For information please visit, www.woodheat.org, a non-profit and very informative website.

Paint curing

On initial firings, the exterior of the stove will smoke. This is normal and will happen with greater intensity on a painted stove. It will subside after the first few fires. You may have to open a door or window near the stove.

Glass

The glass on your stove will become dirty on the first few fires. It will also become dirty if burning wet wood, under slow burn, and if adequate draft is not available. Your hearth retailer can provide you with glass cleaner that will not harm your stove glass.

Draft

Draft is a force that exists in a properly designed and functioning chimney system. It pulls air into the combustion chamber and expels smoke and combustion gases from the appliance. The ability for draft to exist depends on many factors: chimney location and height, elbows, horizontal runs, flue size, house construction, house pressurization as well as atmospheric and environmental conditions.

Wood

Wood is the fuel for your stove. Generally, dry hard wood that is properly sized will allow you to achieve desired burn times and heat output. Soft wood is less dense than hard wood and has fewer BTUs per volume. Wood that is cut too short will not fill the firebox. Green wood has high water content and water does not burn!

Accessories

Depending on your installation, certain accessories may be required such as a heat shield or an outside air kit. All ducting must be non-combustible and clearances to combustible materials must be maintained. There are other accessories you may find indispensable such as a stovetop thermometer, hearth gloves, a tool set, a double bottom ash bucket, and a wood rack.

Maintenance

Yearly maintenance should be performed on your wood-burning system. Inspect and clean your chimney and connector pipe. Inspect door gasket for proper seal. Visually inspect the interior of the firebox. A certified hearth professional is qualified to perform these inspections.

Getting Started With Gas

Gas Installation:
As with any vented hearth product, please rely on the expertise of a hearth professional for installation. All installations must be done in accordance with the owner's manual and local building codes.

Lighting your stove:
Please refer to the silver rating plate or owner's manual for this procedure. It is helpful to familiarize yourself with the location of the controls and pilot assembly before attempting to light your stove. Locate the on-pilot-off knob and notice a small white arrow positioned at 3 o'clock on the base. Locate the Piezo igniter button (black button with red spark painted on the end) and position your field of vision so you can look through the glass at the pilot assembly while lighting. When you are sure there is gas pressure to the stove, rotate the on-pilot-off knob so the word pilot is aligned with the white arrow at 3 o'clock. Push in and hold. While looking at the pilot assembly, push the Piezo igniter button once per second until a blue flame appears. Keep holding the on-pilot-off knob for 10 to 30 seconds (when you release the knob, the pilot flame should stay lit.) Rotate the on-pilot-off knob counter-clockwise one-quarter turn. Your stove is now ready for operation!

Paint curing:
On initial firings, the exterior of the stove will smoke. This is normal and will happen with greater intensity on a painted stove. It will subside after the first few fires. You may have to open a door or window near the stove.

Flame picture:
In your manual, you will see a picture that will depict an average flame picture for your stove. The actual flame picture can and will vary depending on variables such as venting, altitude, gas supply, and weather conditions.

Operating your stove:
Operation of your stove is very simple. There is a rocker switch with the words "on/off/stat" on it. When in the middle position, the burner is off. To turn on, place a finger on the word "on" and push. If using a thermostat or remote, the switch should be set to the "stat" position. On the valve, there is a knob with the words "high-low" on it. To turn the flame/heat output up or down, rotate this knob.

Remotes and Thermostats:
Remotes and thermostats are another way to turn the burner on and off. They should always be connected to the terminal block and not directly to the valve. Please refer to the owner's manual for complete instructions. As with any part of the installation of your hearth product, it is best to rely on the expertise of a hearth professional for the installation of remotes and thermostats.

Blowers:
Blowers may be added to free standing gas appliances & fireplaces, or come standard with gas inserts. They will increase the volume of air circulating through the heat exchange. A blower requires electricity and therefore you may require the services of an electrician to complete your installation. One very important note is that blowers will make noise while operating.

Other accessories:
Depending on the model, there are other accessories such as screens, brick kits, or optional faces available. These are purely decorative.

Maintenance:
Although maintenance to a properly installed and functioning gas hearth appliance is minimal, there are a few things that should be done.

1. Before and shortly after the first fire, the glass should be cleaned. Your hearth retailer can provide you with glass cleaner that will not harm your glass.
   
2. Glass should be cleaned at least once every three months during the heating season.
   
3. Annual inspection by a hearth professional.
   
4. Vacuum blowers and surrounding area at least once a year.

Why Cast Iron

Cast iron has always been the preferred material of the skilled stove maker because it is extremely hard wearing and durable. Cast iron has a thermal mass and excellent heat radiating characteristics and therefore stores heat naturally through its air inclusions. It stores and distributes heat more evenly and for a considerably longer period than any other materials used in stove manufacture. All parts can be replaced.

Radiated vs. Convected Heat

Radiation

Radiation is when heat is emitted as invisible light. These rays travel through the air until they hit a material which absorbs them. This material will become warmer as a result.

This type of heat is ideal in a room with a high ceiling, in buildings with plenty of draft, or simply if you are looking for rapid direct heat from your fireplace.

When arranging furniture and any other objects, you should remember that it can be extremely hot next to the fireplace. A free-standing heat shield can be used to prevent heat being radiated in particular directions.

radiated heat

Convection

Convection is when the air around the stove becomes warm, expands and rises. If the stove has a convection chamber, the air between the stove and the plates heats up more quickly. The heated air will rise and transport heat around the room.

The hot air gathers under the ceiling and it will be possible to blow this down towards the floor using a ceiling fan. Convection takes a little bit longer to heat up the room, compared with radiation.

convected heat

Chimneys and Draft Conditions

The main function of a chimney is to create draft for combustion and to transport the flue gases out of the building.
A good draft is vital for a good combustion. We consider a normally good draft to be between 10-20 Pa (1-2 mm VC). The chimney creates the draft, not the appliance.

Essential for the draft is the construction of the chimney
A tall chimney gives more draft. If the draft is insufficient it can be a solution to build a taller chimney. The chimney diameter should never be less than the diameter on the appliance flue outlet. A circular chimney liner normally gives a better draft than a square. Use of flue pipe elbows reduces the draft.

If elbows are used it is better to install with 2 X 45^o instead of a 90^o .

Combustion air is essential for the draft

An open fireplace requires approx 300m³ air each hr, while a “closed” fireplace requires approx 30m³ per hr. A kitchen duct / ventilator sucks much more air than a chimney. This will create a negative draft. Negative chimney draft causes smoke in the room.

Influence of the wind
Draft disturbance can be caused by tall trees, cliffs or tall buildings. The problem can normally be solved by making the chimney taller.

Draft is simply hot air rising
High temperature creates strong chimney draft. A good result is achieved when the height and diameter of the chimney fits the appliance. Too strong a draft can cause the heat to be sucked too fast into the chimney. Too strong a draft can be regulated with a damper, draft regulators (flue pipes or chimneys), or restrictors.
Multiple uses of flue pipe elbows reduce the draft.

Trouble shooting (wood burning fireplaces)

Sizing is important
An oversized stove can leave you with potential creosote and smoke problems while an undersized stove can lead to constant over firing - resulting in warped and cracked parts.

What is the intended use of the stove?

• Heat source
• Aesthetics (a piece of furniture)
• Primary heat or back up
  

Too large a stove is not going to do you any good
You will constantly burn the stove in an air starved mode which generates a lot of smoke, soot, tar, and ash. The glass will be constantly dark when you burn the stove in an air-starved mode.

Too small a stove is not going to do the you any good either
You will always try to get more heat out of the stove than it can produce, leading to constant over firing. The consequences could be cracked and warped parts which is not covered under the warranty (burn plates, baffle plates etc).

If it is difficult to start the fire the reasons could be:

• Not enough air: Open the air valves. Sometimes the door must be opened (approx. 1 cm gap). Make sure that the damper is in open position.
• Bad kindling: Use small pieces of split kindling together with crumbled newspaper, and add larger pieces. Remember: The smaller the better, the dryer the better.
• Down draft/cold chimney: Heat up the chimney by twisting some newspaper into a torch and hold it up into the stove until the draft is reversed.

Smoke in the room can be caused by:

• Wood quality: Wood with a lot of moisture can cause more smoke than the chimney can dispose of.
• Air systems like air condition, bathroom or kitchen fans might take their need of air from the chimney (negative draft).
• Operating errors: Always open the damper and primary air control before you reload the stove - open the door slowly.
• Flue pipes: Remember that elbows (90^o) and long horizontal flue pipes make restrictions on the draft.
• A chimney that is too short could give insufficient draft for the fireplace.
• A chimney that is too cold can cause none - or negative draft. Flue liner must be correctly connected to the fireplace and the chimney - and have the right dimension.
• Blocked chimney could be caused by a birds nest, soot, or tar.

Short burn time can be caused by:

• Wood load: Large pieces will burn longer than small pieces. Use hard wood that has been cut, split and stored at a dry place for approx. 12 months.
• Too strong draft in the chimney which gives insufficient combustion.
• Operating errors: Primary air control should be slowly adjusted toward the closed position, and then finally closed after the fire is established.

Do not burn with the ash pan door open at a longer period of time - it will cause over firing of the fireplace.

Back puffing (ignition of gases) can be caused by:

• Closing the air control when reloading the burn chamber. Sometimes you must wait approx. 15 min. before you re-close the air-control.
• Secondary air supply might be blocked by soot and tar.
• Moist wood requires enormous amount of energy to dry out before it will burn. These flue gases can ignite and cause an explosion in the burn chamber.
• Insufficient draft.
  

Hard to control (overfiring)

• Poor gasket seals.
• The fuel: Never burn old pallets, chipped wood, trash or waxed products.
• Excessive draft in the chimney: Use a damper or a draft controller to reduce the draft.
  

Low heat

If you find that the heat output is too low the most common reasons are:

• Poor wood quality
• Chimney draft
• Operating errors
• House construction (insulation, height to ceiling and such)
• The stove is too small

When the wood burns slowly and at a low temperature, it produces tar and other organic vapours which - combine with moisture - form creosote. This creosote will stick to the chimney walls.

Creosote is the fuel for chimney fires
Excessive creosote can be caused by:

• Poor wood quality and size
• Chimney draft
• Operating errors
• Stove size (too low operating temperature)
  

Remember to sweep the chimney before the start of the firing season.

Efficiency and Heat Output

What is a good heating stove?

• It is a slow combustion heater to build a controlled fire in.
• A good fireplace or stove holds on to the heat, instead of letting it fly up the chimney.
• Technically a slow combustion heater is both a combustion changer and a
  heat exchanger.
• It burns the wood efficiently and gets the heat into the house.
  

How big a stove or fireplace do I need?

It depends on:

• The size of your house / room
• The insulation of your house
• The design of your house
• Your desire for the pleasure of the flames or the heat
  

Efficiency

The most important factors in terms of efficiency are:

• The air tightness of the stove
• The amount of radiating surface
• The type and dryness of wood
• The house insulation
• The way the stove is controlled

An efficient stove will burn the wood slowly rather than in a flash. Burning is controlled by regulating the flow of air into the firebox.

Wood burns in three phases:

• Water evaporates
• Wood turns into charcoal and gases
• The charcoal burns

Many stoves lets the gases go up the chimney unburned. These gases can represent 60% of the potential heat of the wood. To avoid this the stoves require oxygen mixed with the gases at a temperature of at least 350 to 600^oC. Some stoves have designs that brings secondary air to the combustion chamber to burn gases and particles that would normally go up the chimney unburned and by that they get a higher efficiency. A slow combustion heater is normally driven by primary air. By implementing secondary air you will burn gases and particles more efficient at a lower temperature in the firebox. This is normally called Clean Burn technology and will increase the efficiency by almost 40%.

To obtain high efficiency the wood has to be dry. Wet wood will in addition to generating less energy create creosote in the chimney when the combustion is incomplete.Visit woodheat.org for more information about heating with wood.